Had I used gem/switch boxes, I'd be enjoying the same advantage, at the cost of box volume. The original phenolic boxes from the 1960s had the screw threads mounted outboard, allowing even a sloppy drywall edge to reach the device. Even with perfect drywall cuts, the overlap would be at best less under 1/8". I thought all was good until I test fit a device and found that the drywall ears barely touch the drywall at all! With multi-gang boxes it appears that even a perfect fit would result in only very marginal contact with the wallboard (see second photo). (Without any clearance the board binds at the base of the mud ring due to the radius.) This gives be about 1/8" to maneuver the sheetrock. I measured the coordinates to cut holes to clear the base of the mud ring projection, which has a radius due to the drawn steel construction, with about 1/8" total clearance. Standard drawn steel mud rings are tapered, though, with a radius at the base, so I have to cut a bit larger to allow the drywall to sit flat. Generally I leave about 1/8" clearance or less. To cut holes around boxes, I measured carefully and cut in the garage with an oscillating tool which produces nice, clean cuts.
In a few spots I bumped them up a size to account for extra recess or used adjustable ones. I'm about half done.įor the most part I'm using mud rings that match the drywall depth, giving about 1/8" recess (due to the screws) which is well within NEC allowance.
The rough-in passed no problem, and I've been chipping away at hanging the drywall. I rewired most of my home with 4" square boxes with mud rings.
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